We just got back from a quick week in Paris and noted some interesting changes.
For example long established neighborhood brasseries are being taken over by chains like the "Indiana" for example... and not just in "touristy" areas like Place de la Republique where there has been one for years, but way way off the tourist track at Place Denfert Rochereau the brasserie long known for it's mustachioed Patron is now an "Indiana".
I didn't go in :) and instead we went to the Chez Daguerre across the street where it's been for decades.
Some things I guess are inevitable... Paris has Starbucks now... I have no idea who goes there with good coffee available dozens of ways at every cafe' in town.
But... some things though you think would NEVER change.
Institutions that have maintained their purity and traditions for decades.
But that Paris landmark Fauchon has gone modern!
The departments have been moved to start with... and how they operate is decidedly non-traditional. Produce is not to be found, meats/charcuterie with it's window displays are gone, the boulangerie/patisserie with their cases a thing of the past.
In their place you'll find self-serve racks of lunch sized cheeses, pates, salads, and beverages catering to a different audience with modern (think upscale McDonald's) tables on the ground and 1eme floors.
Wines and Spirits are in an adjoining location and while offering an excellent 18euro lunch "menu" at the wine bar downstairs it just lacks the style one expects at Fauchon.
Still with much of the city on strike that day we had a light lunch there... and where else can you have pate' de foie gras for lunch :)
Thankfully SOME places respect tradition.
The Madeline, a revolutionary era (and at "only" ~200 years old fairly new for Paris) church, was open and I lit a candle for Joan the Maid at her 1909 (pre-canonization) statue there.
Not a bad way to spend a strike day in Paris, and we did get a couple of bottles of Fauchon Armagnac to bring home, but I still prefer the Fauchon of old, some things just shouldn't change.
http://www.hackamore.com/
Sunday, March 22, 2009
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